Tokyo City and Etiquette Overview

The City

The fantastically safe Tokyo metropolis is a modern megacity made up of several neighborhoods, concentrated around subway stations. These are connected mainly by the JR Yamanote ring line, the Ginza Metro line, the Marunouchi Metro line, and the Hibiya Metro line. The main neighborhoods are biz/shopping/nightlife Harajuku/Aoyama/Omotesando, young and trendy Shibuya, rowdy foreigner row Roppongi, upscale Ginza/Tokyo Station/Yurakucho, geeky Akihabara, and historical Ueno and Asakusa.

For reference, it takes about 40 minutes to get across from one side of Tokyo to the other (Shibuya to Ueno, 30 minutes on the train and 10 minutes walking on the Ginza line), and the JR Yamanote ring line takes an hour to ride in one circle of the line. This simplified map shows the 4 most used lines (of over 15) – it can be confusing! You’ll sometimes have to transfer between train lines so get a Suica or Passmo card when you get to Tokyo so you won’t have to worry about calculating fares.

Ettiquite

Tokyo is a city run by rules. While you may say that this is true of any city, the amazing thing is that 99% of local Tokyoites follow these rules to the t. There is absolutely no cutting in line, no litter on the streets, no smoking (or eating!) in undesignated areas, and no talking on cell phones on trains, and it’s awesome… because no matter how much you screw up the rules nobody cares. You’re not a Tokyoite and nobody expects you to be, just relax and enjoy the efficiency of the city, be yourself and realize the odd looks from locals are from confusion (how is it possible that this rule is being broken?!) rather than disdain.

This TokyoTV segment from Tokyo Teleport Plus describes eating in Tokyo:

Other TokyoTV segments with venue reviews, language and neighborhood overviews, and 50 other videos may be found in our Tokyo Teleport Plus iPhone Tokyo Video Guide.

You’re not going to learn all the customs, but if there were three rules you’d have to know:

1 – bow whenever you’re unsure of what to do
2 – Japanese people don’t always say what they mean out of courtesy – “oh, no, you don’t have to take off your shoes when you come in the house” (even though the 30 other guests that have come today have done it and no shoe has ever touched the clean floors of my house!)
3 – if you’re unsure, emulate. Just do as locals do and if you have questions, ask in a smart way – “does everyone take off their shoes when entering the house?” (answer – yes) rather than “should I take off my shoes?” (answer – oh NO, i wouldn’t want to inconvenience you, followed by profuse apologies. but they really want you to take off your shoes).

Hesitation or uncertainty in an answer is a certain indication that they don’t agree with you. That’s just the way they say no. Try not to abuse this courtesy. It can be difficult.

Key Sights

There’s something for everyone in Tokyo. This is the list that I give to my friends who are visiting Tokyo for the very first time, an itinerary that gives first-timers a good feel for the entire city in seven days.

First time in Tokyo:

Leave home Tuesday around noon. Arrive in Tokyo on Wednesday afternoon.
0. Wed: Settle in to hotel, explore stylish Shibuya and get dinner, if you’re up for it enjoy some nightlife.
1. Thurs: The world famous Tsukiji Fish Market at 5AM + Akihabara’s zany geek culture in the afternoon. Be sure to visit a maid cafe.
2. Fri: Historic Sensoji Temple in Asakusa + Best Japanese Art Museums in Ueno + dinner in rowdy Roppongi.
3. Saturday morning at Tokyo’s most important shrine, Meiji-Jingu + hanging out with the fashion tribes and cosplayers in next door in Yoyogi Park + walk down Tokyo’s Champs Elysees, Omotesando, toward Aoyama + A visit to Shinjuku’s nightlife districts in the evening.
4. Sunday morning exploring the Imperial Palace gardens + afternoon in upscale Ginza’s streets, (closed for pedestrians on Sunday).
5. Mon: Overnight trip – explore to Hakone-Yumoto and take pictures with Mount Fuji, then soak in the hot springs to wind down your Tokyo experience.
6. Tues: Return to Tokyo in time for lunch, head back to the airport for your afternoon flight.
7. Tues: Arrive home at noon on the same day you left Tokyo, or head to Osaka/other cities in Japan.

That’s a full trip, but the hot springs in Hakone make sure you’ll be well rested for your trip home. Replace the things that bore you with visits to the trendy Shimokitazawa or Naka Meguro neighborhoods, spend more time in Ueno if ancient Japanese artwork is your thing, or be a samurai for a day and learn to fight from the fight choreographer for Kill Bill.

When people ask for new things to do, I give them a list of my Tokyo favorites. I love food, architecture, and local experiences. Your list may be different – Tokyo Teleport features lists of the best experiences in Art/Architecture/Design, chef tours, finds for fashionistas, Traditional Japan, quirky Japanese experiences, in addition to lists for more traditional categories. Use the guide and make your own list!

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