Omotesando is the "Japanese Champs-Elysees" where stylish young Tokyo comes to buy clothing and accessories so trendy that "pop-up" stores close after a few weeks just to stay in front of the fashion curve. Your rich obasan Japanese grandmother may find the same headliners on the main boulevard (Dior, Hermes, Bulgari) as on her regular Ginza beat, but the more interesting stores are nestled in the back streets in Harajuku past Takeshita Dori, and up in Aoyama between the Prada Building and the street where the

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